Start with the deal-breakers
Before debating whether a scratch is worth £200 off, resolve the things that can make the whole purchase unsafe or unsuitable. Vehicle identity problems, unresolved stolen information, serious finance concerns, dangerous current MOT defects or a material mileage inconsistency all deserve priority.
A great price does not make a serious unresolved problem less serious.
How strong is the evidence?
Separate confirmed facts from seller claims and missing information. A car with a full evidence trail is easier to judge than one with an incomplete advert, missing service history and unavailable provenance.
Missing evidence should reduce confidence, but it should not automatically be turned into an accusation. The next step is usually to ask for the missing proof.
From a list of facts to a buying decision
Illustrative scenario — not a live valuation or a real vehicle recommendation.
You like a car priced at £6,000. The MOT history has a recent suspension advisory, the seller describes a full service history, and only some invoices have been supplied. Start by separating three things: the recorded advisory, the seller’s claim and the paperwork still missing.
What would move it forward?
Evidence of the relevant repair, service records that match the claim, a satisfactory independent assessment where needed, and an asking price that makes sense against genuinely comparable cars.
What would stop it?
Identity details that do not match, significant unresolved history or safety concerns, or a seller unwilling to provide reasonable evidence. A tidy advert does not resolve those issues.
Use a decision, not just a score
BUY: a candidate to pursue on the available evidence, subject to the viewing and documents. NEGOTIATE: a potentially suitable car with a supported price or cost issue. CAUTION: an important question still needs resolving. WALK AWAY: the remaining risks are not acceptable for this purchase.
These labels organise the next action; they are not warranties. Write down what evidence would change your decision. If nothing could change your mind because you already love the car, step back and let someone independent review it.
Have a particular car in mind?
Check its available MOT records and mileage readings free. Then decide whether you need the full £9.99 buyer report.
Is the condition consistent with the story?
Compare the MOT pattern, mileage, service history and advert wording with the physical car. If the advert says “immaculate” but the tyres are mismatched, the body has obvious repair signs and the service record is thin, the story is becoming less credible.
One small issue does not make a bad car. Several unrelated inconsistencies can matter more than any one of them.
Is the price right for this exact car?
Do not negotiate only from the seller’s asking price. Where possible, start with a suitable market range for the derivative and mileage, then account for evidence-led repair costs and uncertainty.
A lower price can make a worn tyre or overdue service manageable. It should not be used to rationalise identity, provenance or major safety concerns.
Does the seller make the purchase easier to verify?
A credible seller should be able to answer normal questions about ownership, service history, repairs and viewing arrangements without creating pressure to pay first. Be cautious about deposit-before-viewing demands, inconsistent addresses or reluctance to let you match the VIN and paperwork.
Professional presentation is not proof of legitimacy, and a private seller with an old phone is not automatically suspicious. Look for consistency and verifiable facts.
A simple decision scorecard
If one category contains a genuine deal-breaker, a strong score elsewhere should not hide it. If the problems are mainly wear items or price, the correct answer may be NEGOTIATE rather than reject.
When walking away is the smart move
Walking away is easier when you remember there will be another car. Stop if the vehicle identity cannot be reconciled, the seller wants money before reasonable verification, serious history issues remain unresolved, or the physical car is materially worse than the story you were sold.
The cost of missing one “bargain” is usually far lower than the cost of buying the wrong car.
How CarSussed answers the question
CarSussed is built around the decision rather than the data dump. It joins available provenance, MOT/mileage, valuation, advert and buyer evidence, then explains the strongest positives, the main risks, what to ask and what to check at the viewing.
The verdict is decision support, not permission to pay sight unseen. A BUY still means verify the physical car and documents before completing the purchase.
Turn the evidence into a decision.
CarSussed checks the available vehicle evidence, explains the risks and gives you the questions and viewing actions to take before buying.
Sources and limits
GOV.UK: what is available in MOT history.
The worked examples are illustrative. CarSussed’s buying guidance is an interpretation, not an official MOT finding or a physical inspection.